Harishchandragad: A challenging trek in the Western Ghats of India
It all started with a thought to go on a midnight trek to this third highest peak in Maharashtra. One day my friend posted a message on WhatsApp saying that there is a trek to Harishchandragad fort. It’s been almost 20yrs since I did my last trek. So I thought let’s explore a new place and relive which I the travelling experiences I used to love doing when I was pretty young, as in in the college days. There were doubts in my mind that whether I will be able to do it or not as it was really long since I have done it. Keeping all doubts aside I gave it a go ahead.
A Few Things To Know Before You Go
Since a lot of you have been asking about the details after reading this, let me just put down the basics so your planning is easier than ours was — we were honestly winging most of it!
- Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult — not impossible, but don’t take it lightly
- Total Distance: Roughly 14–16 km for the full round trip
- Base Village: Khireshwar or Pachnai — we went from the Khireshwar side
- Drive from Mumbai or Thane: Budget around 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic
- Best Months To Go: October through February — the trail is safer and the weather actually cooperates
- How long does it take: Keep the full overnight for it, easily 16 to 18 hours end to end
- Height: Around 1,429 metres — third highest peak in Maharashtra, and it earns that title
We started from Cidco near Thane station from where the bus was supposed to pick all of us. We were a couple of friends who have decided to give it a try, among them there was one who is a freak traveller and keep on going to solo trip, and we were excited to take it ahead. We all started around 11:00 PM in the night from Thane station and reached around 2:30-3 early mornings to the base camp. After taking a break of around 30 minutes we all started our trek around 3:30 in the morning. The moment we started we saw fireflies all over scattered on the trees, there were plenty, and the sight of them was charismatic. They were in hundreds and it was mesmerizing to see them, in fact, for the first time in my life, I took a couple of them in my hands. Wow, that was a too cool experience which for me is tough to express in words.
We moved from there and started walking with torches in hands as it was early 4 o clock. It was so calm and quiet that you can feel the essence of the forests and feel like you can talk to the trees and enjoy the nature. We kept on moving between jungle with the rough patches where at one point came and it looked like that was impossible to cross as the rocks were steep and straight to the height, where at one side it was a deep moat and if you slipped then you are gone for life – it was dangerous, yet we pulled off by helping each other.
We moved ahead towards a Shiva temple which was pretty old where we took a halt for some time. The temple was stunning and the stones throw warmth and simultaneously a cooling feel to you. Morning sunlight came to the ray of hope and when the sun rises that first light gave such a great feeling especially when you are away from the materialistic world just with nature enjoying the forest and landscapes.
By the time we reach the top hill, it was almost 8 o clock. The moment we all looked at the view everyone’s mouth was open by seeing the beautiful and mesmerizing clouds decked with ranges. We all went speechless by the beauty of this place. Each and everyone wants to just sit there quietly for some time and get engrossed in that feeling of nature. We were there for almost 3 hrs. Sitting, relaxing and watching how the clouds change their shape and nature. After having breakfast we started again to return back to our base camp which no one wants to do, but we all have to. While getting down we stopped again at the Shiva temple. We all refilled our water bottles and that’s when we realised that the pond water was pure and cool.
Not just this we got a chance to speak with the locals and the villagers who had kiosks on the rocks offering the travellers fresh kokum drink or lemon water. By the time we reached the base camp, it was 4 o clock in the evening. We had our lunch and then we started back for Thane. The trip ends here but I’m sure no one wishes to go back. But we all were taking back some of the beautiful memories for a lifetime. We did say a goodbye to that place with a thought in mind that someday we will come again to see the beauty which has put a stamp on each and everyone’s heart.
Getting There — The Practical Bit
Most people coming from Mumbai or Thane will find it easiest to join an organised trek group — that’s exactly what we did, and honestly it takes so much stress out of the logistics. Our bus picked us up from Cidco near Thane station which made things simple.
If you want to go independently, the route is Thane or Mumbai → Sangamner by bus → local vehicle to Khireshwar village. The drive itself is beautiful once you get out of the city, so keep your eyes open.
One thing I will say — starting at midnight sounds mad, but it is genuinely the best decision. You trek through the forest in the dark, arrive at the top just as the sun comes up, and that first light hitting the clouds and mountain ranges while you are sitting there exhausted and happy — there is nothing quite like it.
What To Carry — Learn From Our Mistakes
Okay so we did figure most of this out on the way, but let me save you the trouble:
- A proper torch or headlamp — and please carry spare batteries. Starting at midnight in a forest with a dying torch is not the adventure you want
- Water, at least 2 to 3 litres per person. The good news is there is a natural pond near the Shiva temple on the way up where you can refill — and the water is genuinely cold and clean, we were surprised
- Some snacks to keep you going through the night — dry fruits, energy bars, whatever works for you
- Trekking shoes, not sneakers. The rocky section will make you very grateful for good grip
- A light jacket or woollen layer — the summit gets cold before sunrise, even if it did not feel that way when you left home
- Raincoat if you are going anywhere close to monsoon season
- Basic first aid — bandages and a painkiller at minimum
- Cash. There are no ATMs, no UPI, nothing. The lovely woman selling kokum at the top only takes cash and you will absolutely want that kokum
A Few Honest Tips — Especially If You Haven’t Trekked In A While
I had not trekked in almost 20 years before this one. So if you are sitting there wondering whether you can do it — I am here to tell you that you probably can. Just go in with the right expectations.
Start the trek by 3 to 3:30 in the morning latest if you want to catch sunrise at the top — the timing makes all the difference in the world.
Please do not go alone. There is one section on the trail where the rocks are steep, straight up, with a serious drop on one side. It looks impossible when you first see it in the dark. It is not — but you need people around you to help each other through it. We all made it, but only because we moved together.
When you reach the top, resist the urge to just sit quietly with your group. Go speak to the locals. The villagers who set up their little kiosks on those rocks — some of the most genuinely warm people you will meet. And that kokum drink or fresh lemon water they hand you after a full night of trekking? Better than anything you will get at a fancy café, I promise.
Harishchandragad will ask something of you. But what it gives back — those clouds, that silence, that feeling of being completely away from everything — is worth every steep rock and sleepless night.
Go. You will not regret it.
This blog is from the pen of Ankur Jain, one of the co-traveller with us on this trek.
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Happy Travelling Guys 🙂